Ask the Experts: Where Does the Damage Happen? March 25, 2019 12:23

Everyone wants healthy shiny enviable hair but in our quest for the colour of our dreams or the hottest style condition can get neglected

As part of any consultation it is important that we analyse the condition of your hair before we begin. We believe that great style starts with great hair and that if the precious fibre is compromised your hair will never truely be your crowing glory.

Whether we take care of condition in salon, or you are a dedicated 'treatment junkie' at home, if you want amazing hair then regular doses of protein, moisture and rebounding are a must!

It makes sense that if the fibre is damaged, weakened, or dehydrated that not only will it be hard to style but any further services (like that great colour you are looking for) will not be as successful

So we asked salon owner Jennifer Morgan to give us her thoughts on haircare so here is a little session called "Hair Structure 101"

Did you know that the scale-like structure of the cuticle (the outside layer) normally has approximately ten layers of cells and as hair is damaged these often degrade, resulting in fewer layers, weakening the hair itself and reducing the layer of protection surrounding the cortex.

Damaged cuticles spread out and expand, leaving the cortex exposed, destabilised and vulnerable and requiring other words the hair is now in trouble

Hair care products are usually designed to target a specific problem. Because of this they will vary in intensity; a mild dose of dandruff is likely to be treatable at home, whereas serious chemical damage will require expert advice and professional treatment.

Where does the damage happen?

Mechanical Influences

This includes combing, back-combing, and the use of a hair curler. These methods can rub against the hair cuticles causing them to flake and tear. Wet hair is particularly susceptible as the cuticles are swollen, potentially exposing the inner cortex. Extensive brushing can lead to traction alopecia and can cause breakage in dry and brittle hair.


Factors include light (UV and visible light), salt and chlorine water. These can all contribute to the breakdown of chemical bonds within hair structure. Heat from sunlight can also dry out hair and make it susceptible to damage.


Using a curling iron, straighteners, blow dryer or dryer hood. Heat breaks down the temporary bonds, which hold together polypeptide chains within the hair. Hair can then be set into a new style. Over-exposure to heat can irreparably damage the structure of hair and may also damage the scalp, leading to hair loss.

Chemical Influences

Includes colouring, bleaching and perming services, which are designed to penetrate the outer protective cuticle, so as to affect the inner cortex directly. Colour & texturising chemicals break down disulphate bonds, which hold together the polypeptide chains of keratin. If hair and scalp are over exposed to these chemicals, severe damage can occur.


A humid environment opens up pores and cuticles leaving them exposed to damaging influences.


Unhealthy hair can be an indicator of an underlying health problem or poor diet. In addition, drugs can have a direct influence on hair condition. Pregnant women, or women taking the contraceptive pill, often have very healthy hair as oestrogens play an important role in the growth and health of hair, whereas chemotherapy introduces toxins which disrupt hair renewal.

In the past decade the hairdressing industry has been revolutionised by the wide range of high tech treatments available both in-salon and to take home to prevent, restore and repair even the most tortured tresses

To see what options we have available at Morgan & Morgan Urban Retreat  just click here